IF THERE’S ONE dish an Austrian chef needs to nail, it’s Wiener schnitzel, and Kurt Gutenbrunner turns out an absolutely classical rendition. “It’s golden, it’s bright, it’s elegant,” he said of the veal cutlet pounded thin, breaded and pan-fried. “And if you do it right, the egg-breadcrumb-and-flour coating soufflés perfectly around the veal.”

A professional schnitzel-maker from the age of 15, Mr. Gutenbrunner has, finally, settled upon this recipe, his third Slow Food Fast contribution. He warns that overbeating the eggs will prevent the coating from souffléing and recommends lightly shaking the pan during cooking to allow the hot fat to baste the top of the cutlet as the underside browns. A simple green salad, a lemon wedge and a dollop of tart lingonberry jam round out the plate, and a garnish of fried parsley makes a nice, sharp counterpoint to the rich veal...