FIFTEEN YEARS AGO, Kurt Gutenbrunner introduced his elegant Austrian cooking to New Yorkers at his West Village restaurant Wallsé. From there the chef launched two more Austrian places in the city, and he revamped and reopened his wine bar, Upholstery Store, this past January, adding “Food and Wine” to the name and a menu of small plates and seafood.

“I grew up with classic cuisine—it is the base for my creativity,” the chef said. “This is food you can understand.” Comfort and luxury often converge in his cooking, and this recipe, Mr. Gutenbrunner’s first Slow Food Fast contribution, is no exception: Tiny spaetzle dumplings, a rustic Austrian staple, get a quick sauté with asparagus and morel mushrooms—plus a good glug of cream.