WHETHER AT Wallsé, with its impressive collection of contemporary paintings, or Cafe Sabarsky, with Austrian-modernist furnishings by the likes of Josef Hoffmann and Adolf Loos, the prevailing aesthetic at Kurt Gutenbrunner’s Manhattan restaurants is one of elegant restraint—and the food is no exception. “My dishes are pretty architectural,” the chef said. “I don’t like them to be too crazy. As long as the components are carefully placed, you are good.”
In this recipe, Mr. Gutenbrunner’s final Slow Food Fast contribution, a foundation of sour cream and leeks supports a pan-seared trout fillet. A scattering of warm capers and chopped almonds provides textural as well as visual contrast.